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Proper size
Don't select shoes by the size inside the shoe. The size your foot
measures is your foot size. Sizes vary among shoe brands and styles.
Judge the shoe by how it fits on your foot. Don't hesitate to try on
a shoe in a size other than what measuring indicates. Don't assume
that you know your current shoe size. Have both feet measured, as
you stand, each time you by your shoes (the size of your feet changes
as your grow older). Most people have one foot larger than the
other. Fit to the largest foot.
Try on shoes at the end of the day (or after a workout for athletic
shoes) when your feet are the largest. Allow 3/8" to 5/8" room
between the end of the longest toe (in some people it is the 2nd
toe) and the end of the shoe (i.e. Toe box). Your foot continues
to move forward inside the shoe even when the ground stops the shoe
from moving.
Try shoes on with the same thickness of socks you intend to wear.
Finally, if you use orthotics
try the shoes on with them.
Shape
Unless there is a reasonable match between shoe shape and foot
shape, then fit, regardless of proper size, is largely nullified.
Select a shoe that conforms as nearly as possible to the shape of
your foot. The ball of the foot should fit at the widest part of
the shoe. This is where the shoe is designed to flex. Women
especially, should check this as they tend to be wider here relative
to the heel.
The "last" of the shoe is the model on which the shoe is built.
There are three types: straight, semi-curved and curved. Each shoe
company works from a specific last - their last may match your fit
more closely.
To determine your foot shape, stand on a sheet of paper and trace the
outline of each foot. Draw a straight line bisecting your heel
(dividing it in half), from your heel to your toes. If the line runs
through your first two toes you have a straight foot. If the line runs
through your middle toe, you have a semi-curved foot. If the line
runs through the last two toes, you have a curved foot.
Don't purchase shoes that feel too tight, expecting them to stretch to
fit. Your heel should fit comfortably with a minimum of slippage.
Women's heels tend to be narrower than men's.
Type of foot
Know your foot type and gait characteristics. Is your foot properly
arched, flat or high arched. The properly arched foot lands on the
outside of the heel and rolls inward slightly to absorb shock. This
foot needs moderate stability and control.
Arch Type
The flat foot or low arch usually exhibits a great deal of pronation,
landing on the outside of the heel and rolling inward excessively.
To see if this is your problem, get your feet wet and walk (don't just
stand) on a piece of paper. If you see the print of your entire foot
including your arches, you are probably a pronator. Over pronators
tend to have flexible feet so this foot needs maximum stability and
control. Avoid highly cushioned, highly flexible shoes.
The high arched foot underpronates and does not absorb shock well.
This type of foot may supinate or roll outward when running. To see
if this is your problem, get your feet wet and walk (don't just stand)
on a piece of paper. If you only see the print of your heel and the
ball of your foot, your you are probably a supinator. Supinators feet
are more rigid and cannot absorb shock well so, this foot needs a
highly cushioned sole with maximum shock absorption plus a great deal
of flexibility to facilitate proper foot motion. Stay away from heavy
motion control shoes that can make gait unstable and may even promote
ankle injury.
General Rules
Walk in the shoes to make sure it fits and feels right. They should
be comfortable when your first try them on. Wear new shoes no more
than one hour the first day, increasing the time worn each day by one
hour. This will reduce the impact of new stresses, which may occur
as a result of wearing the new shoes. Check for any redness or
rubbing which new shoes may cause. Store shoes in cedar wood
shoetrees when shoes are not worn to maintain shoe fit and shape.
Wear Patterns
Observe your shoes for uneven wear patterns, which may indicate improper
gait or other biomechanical problems. Is the wear pattern even between
shoes? Major causes of asymmetrical wear are limb-length discrepancies
and excessive pronation. The wrong shoe type can cause abnormal wear
patterns. Look at different types of shoes you wear. If the abnormal
wear pattern is consistent, then it is usually a biomechanical flaw.
If only one style of shoes has abnormal wear, then look at the shoe with
the abnormal wear for differences from all the other shoes. For
running shoes, does the wear match the mileage? If the mileage appears
to be low and the wear great, look for problems in the shoe.
If the upper looks like it is hanging over the outside of the shoe, it
may indicate that the last (shape) of the shoe is too curved for the
shape of the foot. If the upper looks like it is hanging over the
inside of the shoe, it may be that the foot pronates too much or the
foot may be too curved for the shoe. Abnormal wear through at the toe
box means the shoe is sized too small. If the heel counter is tipped
to the inside it usually means pronation. If there is excessive wear
on the inside of the heel counter, it is frequently due to excessive
heel motion within the counter indicating that the counter is too big
for the heel.
See
Footwear: Shoe wear patterns offer clues to injury and prevention.
Shoe Design
Heel:
The heel takes a large proportion of a person's weight. Unfortunately,
the height of the heel is often determined by fashion, not by the needs
of our feet. Ideally, the heel should have a broad base and the height
should be no greater than 4cm. A wedge, which adds height to the heel,
enhances the shoe's ability to absorb shock and reduces strains. While
this may ease problems like achilles tendonitis, a shoe with a higher
heel my feel less stable.
Heel Counter:
This is the portion of the shoe that grasps the heel at the sides and
back, preventing the heel from sliding up and down while walking. It
must be rigid and durable as it stabilizes and helps maintain the
position of the heel when the shoe contacts the ground. As the heel
counter softens or breaks down and loses its shape, the shoe becomes
less supportive. Not all shoes have a heel counter.
Upper:
This is the material that forms the main part of the shoe
covering the top of the foot.
Dress shoes usually have leather uppers. Athletic shoes with
synthetic fabric uppers are lighter, washable and breathable.
Athletic shoes should have a padded tongue to cushion against lace
pressure and padded heel counter to cushion the ankle and help prevent
achilles tendonitis.
Outsole:
This is the treaded layer glued to bottom of the midsole. It resists
wear, provides traction and absorbs shock. The outsole is usually
leather in dress shoes and some type of rubber in athletic shoes. In
running shoes, stud or waffle outsole are good for running on dirt or
grass because they improve traction and stability. Ripple soles are
better for running on asphalt or cement surfaces.
Midsole:
The midsole is located between the tread and the upper. It is the
most important part of any running shoe. It controls excessive foot
motion and provides cushioning and shock absorption. The primary
material used in midsoles are EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) and PU
(polyurethane). EVA is a foam that is light and has good cushioning,
but breaks down fairly quickly. Compression-molded EVA is harder but
more durable. PU, also a foam, is denser, heavier, and more durable
than EVA. Most shoes are also cushioned with gel, foam or various
manufacturer-specific technologies that are encapsulated in the
midsole. This cushioning last longer than previous methods and often
adds stability as well as shock absorption.
Lining:
This is the inside of the shoe and should be smooth and
without seams. Most shoes have an insert with an arch support that can
be pulled out of the shoe. It is usually best to replace this with a
better pre-fabricated insert.
Fastenings: This holds the foot in the shoe. The shoe should have
laces, straps with buckles or Velcro to keep them in place. The
lacing area and tongue should be padded in athletic shoes, especially
if you have bony bumps on your insteps. Slips on shoes are kept in
place either because they are too small for the foot or by curling the
toes, neither of which is proper.
Flexibility:
An average pair of feet flexes at the ball about 7000 times/day. Whatever
the degree of "flex resistance" by the shoe is the degree to
which a work overload is imposed on the foot at the expense of comfort.
Shoe flexibility involves the outsole, insole, upper and general
construction of the shoe.
Weight:
The heavier the shoe, the more "foot-lift" workload on the
foot, with consequent lessening of comfort. A difference of only four
ounces in the weight of a pair of shoes can make a difference of over
one ton of foot-lift daily. Foot-lift load affects fatigue and strain.
Inside-Shoe Climate:
This is among the most important shoe comfort factors and one most
often overlooked. It means materials used, temperature, humidity,
moisture, breathability, and insulation.
Underfoot resilience (shock absorption): The feet bear a cumulative
total of about 800 tons of impactive body weight daily in a series of
about 7000 "step-shocks." Under natural conditions (resilient soil)
the foot is equipped to absorb such impact, but under unnatural conditions
of non-resilient ground surfaces common to today, it is not. Hence a
measure of underfoot cushioning built into the shoe is essential to shoe
comfort.
How to Determine When Your Shoes Are Worn
Out:
1. Inspect the shoes to see if any glued or stitched areas are
pulling away from the seams. If this occurs it is time for a change.
2. Place the shoe on a hard, flat surface and look at it from the
rear. The entire upper part of the shoe should be centered and
not leaning to the side or bowed to the side (inside or outside).
3. When looking from the rear of the shoe, the sole should rest level
to the surface. If the shoe rocks side to side, replace it.
4. Push on the heel counter to see if it is still rigid. If not, the
shoe will not support your foot.
See my article on Orthotics to decide whether
you need an orthotic.
See Slam Dunk Science
Shoe 101 for more information on proper shoe fit.
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PROPER SHOE FIT